tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440801442264485617.post1374844464576984839..comments2023-09-30T12:10:25.172-04:00Comments on Skocik Money Pit: Beer Awards and Tile FloorKristyShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14939828907113562362noreply@blogger.comBlogger4125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440801442264485617.post-46655111075697658852011-11-17T00:18:15.989-05:002011-11-17T00:18:15.989-05:00Disclaimer: I read quite a bit on subfloors and th...Disclaimer: I read quite a bit on subfloors and there are many different opinions out there. John Bridge, tile guru, has a pretty good online calculator for joist spans and spacing. However, there may not be a legitimate contractor in the business who would install new tile on this subfloor. I believe the minimum thickness should be 1 1/4" but some say there should be 5/8" over the planks and the screws should not go through the joists. The double joists really help to firm things up. We had some confidence the subfloor would be adequate because the old tile floor had no cracks.<br /><br />Regarding the Hardiebacker board: 1/2" is used for walls and 1/4" is used on floors. Use plenty of the special screws and put a layer of thinset between the subfloor and the board. Spray both the subfloor and Hardiebacker with water to prevent both from drawing the moisture out of the thinset before it sets. You want it to set up, not just dry.<br /><br />If you look back to last year's project, we completed the tile floor with 1/2" Hardiebacker on the floor. I put this right over the planks with modified thinset and many screws. I was only able to do it this way because there are five floor joists under the 36" wide powder room. There is almost no step between the hardwood and ceramic tile. I was very pleased.<br /><br />Good luck!Chrishttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13242607370690075821noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440801442264485617.post-85321713959496913212011-11-16T22:54:28.428-05:002011-11-16T22:54:28.428-05:00This comment has been removed by the author.Chrishttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13242607370690075821noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440801442264485617.post-29584550891433523612011-11-16T08:02:24.891-05:002011-11-16T08:02:24.891-05:00Thanks! Actually our original plan was to remove ...Thanks! Actually our original plan was to remove the existing subfloor and replace it with the tongue and groove OSB. However, that would have required us to remove two load bearing walls. So instead we kept the original subfloor (1x8 planks on the diagonal) and attached 1/2" plywood (Sturd-i-floor) with seams on the joists. In the basement we added a lot of double joists and blocking to support the weight of the tile. The cement board we used for the floor was 1/4" Hardibacker. I hope that helps! Good luck!KristyShttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14939828907113562362noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440801442264485617.post-90390484582681624912011-11-14T22:52:02.602-05:002011-11-14T22:52:02.602-05:00What progress for just one weekend! That looks gr...What progress for just one weekend! That looks great. I like the pattern you picked. It makes the room look wider than it really is. So can I ask what the subfloor is made of? Is there one or two sheets of plywood under that cement board? How thick is the cement board? We're trying to figure out what to use on our bathroom floor.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com